Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 6, Dresses) (IA completecoursein06cono).pdf/81

 The center-back of the waist and the center-front and the center-back of the skirt ought to be placed on the fold of the goods.

You will need a waist lining cut the same shape but shorter than the outside waist, to hold it up and make it blouse over. Use your waist pattern for cutting this, making it the length of line CDI in diagram 80.

Use a net, china silk or mulle for the lining. The dress style is suitable for any medium weight goods. A fine serge or tricotine works to advantage in a bloused-over effect. Or, it might suit your purpose better, in a heavy crepe silk, rough weave sport's silk or a cotton such as ratine, cotton homespun, gingham or chambray.

Making a Bloused Dress: If you are using cotton material or silk, make French seams in the waist joinings. In woolen goods, open seams that are bound will look better. Your best plan will be to finish the waist and waist lining separately and just join them at the waistline. Make French seams in joining the lining pieces, and turn narrow hems at the neck and armhole of the lining or finish these edges with narrow lace.

Hem the edges at the closing of the lining and run gather threads around the bottom, [ 77 ]