Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 6, Dresses) (IA completecoursein06cono).pdf/65

 French seam the two pieces of the tunic together, leaving the left side seam open to placket depth. If the material is transparent just hem the edges of the placket, but in serge or medium-weight silk finish the placket with a continuous facing.

Turn a one-inch hem at the lower edge of the tunic. Mark the center-front and center-back of both the foundation skirt and the tunic. Gather the tunic at the top. Then, try on the waist and join the foundation skirt to the center of the inside belt, matching the center-front and center-back of the skirt with the center-front and center-back of the belt.

If the skirt cups in the back and pokes out in the front, raise it a trifle at the waistline at the back.

If it swings to the back and binds across the knees in the front raise it a trifle in the front at the waistline.

After the under skirt is properly hung, join the tunic to the center of the inside belt, matching the center-fronts and the center-backs. Adjust the fullness becomingly. Usually more fullness is thrown to the back than the front.

Determine just how the foundation skirt is to be hung and the tunic adjusted. Remove [ 61 ]