Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 6, Dresses) (IA completecoursein06cono).pdf/50

 two-piece sleeve, there will be fullness in the upper sleeve at the outside seam at the elbow. Gather the sleeve at this point. (See Fig. 53.) In woolen materials steam out as much of this fullness as possible, before joining upper sleeve to under sleeve.

If the garment is silk, make French seams, but a woolen fabric is too clumsy with French seams. Bind the edges before joining the inner sleeve seam.

The front seam of a two-piece sleeve is placed to front of armhole.

Hang sleeve as described in making straight-hanging dress. However, in this case the left sleeve is free from the front as the garment closes at the left side.

Finish the back edge of the closing with a shaped extension and the front edge of the closing with a facing. As the extension will be under the front and therefore must fit the front, use the front pattern as a guide in cutting it. Measure back from the edge of the pattern one and three-quarter inches as indi- [ 46 ]