Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 6, Dresses) (IA completecoursein06cono).pdf/49

 This gives you a diagram on which to mark the collar outline. (See dotted line in Fig. 52.)

Fig. 62 shows how to make the lining pattern.

Pleat the skirt according to the rules given in the SKIRT LESSON.

Use your regular full length block sleeve.

Cutting a Long Waisted Dress: The front and the back of the waist patterns should be placed on the fold of the goods.

Keep the center of the sleeve on the straight thread of the goods. Lay the larger pieces on the goods first and then fit in the smaller pieces.

Making a Long Waisted Dress: This style of dress needs a waist lining. Use net, china silk or mulle for the lining.

The dress closes at the left shoulder and underarm seam. So close only the right shoulder and underarm seams.

If the dress is serge bind the raw edges at the right shoulder and underarm and make open seams, but if the dress is silk make French seams. Baste the lining to the outside at the shoulder and underarm seams and neck edge. Stitch around neck of both outside waist and lining to hold the edge in shape.

The sleeves must be joined to the armholes before finishing closing. If you are using a [ 45 ]