Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 6, Dresses) (IA completecoursein06cono).pdf/40

 the underarm. To take out the fullness in the front, slash the pattern from the underarm to the line AB, Fig. 34, and lay a pleat along the line AB, making it deeper at the bottom and running it to nothing at the slash. (See Fig. 42.) Add the necessary width at the side, as described before.

To make the closing at the center-back, use your original back diagram. First, add half the width of the lap beyond the center-back, as line CD, Fig. 43. Line AB is the center-back. Then, add the hem allowance beyond as the line EF. Before cutting the new pattern add seams on all edges. Turn the hem on line CD, before cutting the upper and lower edges.

To make the collar pattern, lay the front and the back patterns on another piece of paper and trace around the upper portions, tracing along the original lines, without seams and, keeping the shoulder edges even and together. (See Fig. 44.) Indicate the new neck outline as line CD, Fig. 44. The line AB is the center-back. Measuring from the new neck outline, mark the depth of the collar and then, draw the outer line, free hand.

Slant the back edge of the collar, as indicated by the line DF. This gives you a collar pattern that will lie flat.

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