Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 6, Dresses) (IA completecoursein06cono).pdf/29

 center-back. Trace this new lower edge line on your original diagram—lines DB, IG.

At the waistline, measure in three-quarters of an inch and mark point E. Curve the underarm seam from this point to the armhole and the bottom. Trace the curve onto another piece of paper, also running the tracing wheel along the armhole and lower edge for a ways. Cut out this outline and lay it on top of the back diagram to mark the same curve there. (See line IJ.)

This gives you a pattern where the fullness in the front hangs straight down below the bust. It is alright for a woman who is not very full across the bust. In large sizes, it is better to swing some of the fullness to the back.

To do this, mark a line from the center of the shoulder through the side front of the pattern, as shown in Fig. 34—line ABC. Point C indicates the depth of a dart at the shoulder. Cut the pattern along the line ABC.

On a new piece of paper, mark a straight line with your ruler as line AB, Fig. 35. Place the front portion of your old pattern on the paper. Mark a point on the front line of the old pattern about five inches below the neck. Keep this point on your new line AB and swing [ 25 ]