Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 4, Blouses) (IA completecoursein04cono).pdf/93



When a person's shoulders are sloping, wrinkles are apt to appear diagonally from the neck to the underarm of the garment that is cut from a standard size pattern. It is a good plan to baste the shoulder and underarm seams and try on the garment before stitching.

To fit a sloping shoulder, take up the shoulder seams to conform to the slope of the shoulders. This means that the garment will be taken up deepest at the armhole and probably only the seam allowance at the neck.

Of course this makes the armhole smaller. Slash the material under the arm until the garment is comfortable, being careful not to slash too deeply. The armhole is enlarged by the seam taken in sewing in the sleeve.

When a person's shoulders are unusually square, the wrinkles come crosswise below the neck, front and back of a garment cut from a standard size pattern. In this case, too, take up the shoulder seams, but take them up deepest at the neck. If the neck of the garment is too small, slash it with the points of the shears.