Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 4, Blouses) (IA completecoursein04cono).pdf/90

 pattern. There are three ways of doing this. It can be fitted out in darts, the pattern spread at the armhole or pleats laid in at the underarm seam.

The simplest way, of course, is to lay in darts from the bust to the waist-line. Another way of getting rid of the fullness in darts, is to place a dart at the shoulder and lap the pattern below the bust. To do this, mark about center-way through the front of the pattern, following the slant of the shoulder in the upper portion and then running the line parallel to the center-front. Cut the pattern along this line and lap out the desired amount of material below the bust: this will spread the pattern above the bust. (See Fig. 99.) Mark around the piece for the new pattern.

When there is just a little material to be