Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 1, Introduction) (IA completecoursein01cono).pdf/105

 both raw edges of the seam in one direction. Press the garment and stitch again. This time stitch from the right side of the garment and run the stitching parallel to the seam.

Here is where a sewing machine foot with a gage comes in handy. The gage can be set the distance you want the stitching from the seam. Then, in running through the material, place the edge of the gage on the joining of the seam and the needle will stitch evenly the exact distance back from the seam that you want the second stitching.

The distance the stitching is placed back from the seam is a matter of choice. In a coat or dress the stitching varies from one-eighth of an inch to one-quarter of an inch from the seam.

Lap Felled Seams.—You will recall that I have already told you how to make a lap felled seam with the special attachment—a narrow hemmer—in place of the regular sewing machine foot.

It is also possible to make a lap felled seam with regular sewing machine foot, although it means turning the edge by hand. For the first stitching, lay the two pieces to be joined with the right sides of the goods together, letting the under piece extend one-quarter of an inch beyond the edge of the upper piece. Stitch the length of the seam, running the stitching one-quarter of an inch from the edge of the upper piece. See Fig. 50. Open