Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 1, Introduction) (IA completecoursein01cono).pdf/102

 sewing. A French seam is the neatest finish for underwear, cotton dresses, blouses and little girls’ frocks of gingham, chambray, organdie and like materials.

A French seam is also used for silk and no finish is daintier than a French seam hand run in a batiste chemise, an infant’s nainsook frock or a little girl’s party frock of chiffon.

To make a French seam, lay the two pieces to be joined with the wrong sides of the goods together and stitch the length of the seam, running the stitching one-eighth of an inch from the edge. See Fig. 47. Turn the pieces wrong side out and crease along the joining. Press the garment and stitch a second time, running the stitching one-quarter of an inch from the creased edge. See Fig. 48.

This gives a neat finish on both the right and the wrong side of the garment but a French seam won’t answer for every purpose. Don’t use a French seam in thick material. It is too bulky.

Don’t use a French seam where you want a flat finish. For instance, at the shoulder a French seam will make a ridge. Except in sheer materials, an open or double stitched seam is better.

Don’t use a French seam where you want a tailored finish. A tailored blouse or a boy’s shirt looks better with double stitched or lap felled seams.