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Rh was permitted to remain open, though not without violent opposition, out of courtesy to us strangers, who particularly requested it should. The heat arising from the chauffepies, or foot-stoves, of the women, the tobacco-pipes of the men, and the air vitiated by the respiration of so many human beings, was intolerable.

The custom of smoking is so prevalent in Holland, that a genuine Dutch boor, instead of describing the distances of places by miles or hours, says they are so many pipes asunder. Thus a man may reach Delft from Rotterdam in four pipes; but if he goes on to the Hague, the journey will cost him seven. Of our fellow-passengers, fifteen at least were resolute smokers. Shall I describe the effects produced on us by the fuliginous vapours of so many pipes, or by the saliva they caused, which almost covered the floor of the cabin? No! No! It is sufficient to say we arrived at Rotterdam, with aching heads, and diseased stomachs. A treckschuyt is nevertheless an excellent conveyance.

The business which called us to Rotterdam