Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/58

[42] Friend, is Mi apreciable amigo: a step more in intimacy is querido amigo and querido Don Juan. All letters conclude after something in this fashion—quedando en el interin S. S. S. [su seguro servidor] Q. S. M. B. [que su mano besa]. This represents our “your most obedient and humble servant:” a more friendly form is, “''Mande Vmd. con toda franqueza á este S. S. S. y amigo afmo. Q. S. M. B.” When a lady is in the case, P. [pies] is substituted for M. [mano''], as the gentleman kisses her feet. Ladies sign su servidora y amiga; clergymen, su S. S. y capellan; military men seldom omit their rank. Letters are generally directed thus:—

Al Señor, Don Fulano Apodo, Madrid.

Most Spaniards append to their signature a Rubrica, which is a sort of intricate flourish, like a Runic knot or an Oriental sign-manual. The sovereign often only rubricates: then her majesty makes her mark, and does not sign her name.

The traveller is advised at least to visit and observe the objects pointed out in the following pages, and never to be deterred by any Spaniard’s opinion that they are “not worth seeing.” He should not, however, neglect looking at what the natives consider to be worth a foreigner’s attention. As a sight-seeing rule in towns, make out a list of the lions you wish to see, and let your lacquey de place arrange the order of the course, according to localities, proper hours, and getting proper permissions. As a general habit, ascend towers in towns to understand topography; visit the Plaza and chief markets to notice local fishes, fowls, fruits, and costumes—these are busy sites and scenes in the Peninsula; for as Spaniards live from hand to mouth, everybody goes there every day to buy their daily bread, &c., and then, as elsewhere, be more careful of keeping your good temper than sixpences: never measure Spanish things by an English standard, nor seek for motes in bright eyes. Scout all imaginary dismals, dangers, and difficulties, which become as nothing when manfully met, and especially when on the road and in the Fonda. View Spain and her inhabitants en couleur de rose, and it will go hard if some of that agreeable tint be not reflected on such a judicious observer, for, like a mirror, the Spaniard returns your smile or frown, your courtesy or contumely; nor is it of any use going to Rome if you quarrel with the Pope. Strain a point or two therefore, to “make things pleasant.”

The following sketch of the Spanish school of painting may be useful to the traveller when visiting the galleries and churches of the Peninsula.

The earliest paintings which he is likely to find in Spain are by feeble imitators of the Italian and Flemish masters of the end of the 14th century and of the 15th. They are principally in the cathedrals and churches of Toledo, Cordova, Seville, Avila, Burgos, and other large towns.