Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/56

[40] seating him on a sofa or in a carriage. A well-bred man when he meets a lady always makes way for her, passing outside; although the strict rule in street-walking, which, from their narrowness and the nice point of honour of touchy passengers, has been well defined, is that whoever has the wall on his or her right hand is entitled to keep it.

On passing soldiers on duty, remember that the challenge of a Spanish sentry is “Quien vive?” The answer is “España.” Then follows “Que gente?” The answer is “Paisano.” The sooner and clearer strangers answer the better, as silence rouses suspicion; and in Spain, in times of revolution, a shot often precedes any explanation.

When you meet your Spanish friends, stop, and attend carefully to the whole process of greetings in the market-place. These things are not done there in our curt and off-hand way,—How are you? You must inquire after the gentleman’s own health, that of his wife (como está mi Señora la esposa de V.), his children, et cetera, and then you will be thought to be a hombre tan formal y cumplido como nosotros, that is, as well-bred as a Spaniard. If when walking with a Spaniard you pass your own house, do not fail to ask him whether he will not step in and rest himself a little, “No quiere V. entrar en esta su casa, y decansar un ratito?” You beg him to come into his, not your house, for thus you offer it to him.

This offering obtains throughout. If a Spaniard admire anything belonging to another, his friend instantly places it at his disposal, está muy á la disposicion de V. The proper reply is a bow, and some sort of speech like this: Gracias, está muy bien empleado, or Gracias, no puede mejorarse de dueño. (“Thanks, it is already in excellent hands; it cannot better its master by any change.”) In like manner, and especially when outside cities, if any Spaniards pass by when you are lunching, picnicking, or eating, never fail to invite them to share your meal, by saying, Gustan ustedes comer? (“Will your graces be pleased to dine?”) To omit this invitation is a flagrant breach of the laws of hospitality; nor is it always a mere compliment on their part, for every class of Spaniard is flattered if you will partake of their fare. However, it is safer to decline with the set speech, Muchas gracias, buen provecho le haga á ustedes. Never at all events, in this or on other occasions, omit these titular compliments.

In towns there is scarcely any dinner society, and luckily; nor is such an invitation the usual compliment paid to a stranger, as with us. Spaniards, however, although they seldom bid a foreigner, will accept his bidding. It is necesary, however, to “press them greatly;” for the correct national custom is to decline. Remember also to apply a gentle violence to your guest, to induce him to eat, and if you are dining with him, let your stomach stretch a point; for unless you over-eat yourself, he will fancy that you do not like his fare. It is the custom in cafés for one to pay for all his acquaintance who may be seated at his table: he who asks his friends what they will take must discharge the account afterwards. Again, if you see friends of yours refreshing themselves in café or public promenade, pretty ladies, for instance, with whom you wish to stand well, you may privately tell the waiter that you will be answerable for their account. It is very easy afterwards,