Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/55

Rh supersedes the fire-place, and where his vivifying rays enter, the doctor goes out. Avoid the brasero, the pan of heated charcoal, the parent of headache and asphyxia; if cold, trust rather to additional clothing than to charcoal; keep your feet warm and the head cool, by avoiding exposure to midday sun and midnight bottle: above all things, carry not the gastronomics of the cold North into the hot South. Live as the natives do, consuming little meat and less wine; sleep the midday siesta as they do, and avoid rash exposure to the delicious cool night breezes. Sleep high in low grounds and marshy districts, avoiding the ground-floor, as the poisonous malarias of fine climates creep on earth, and more so by night, when they are condensed, than by day; throw physic to the dogs, avoiding constipation, and trusting to diet and quiet. Cod-liver oil may as well be taken out by consumptive travellers, as it is dear and indifferent in Spain.

When you have letters of introduction to any Spaniards, both ladies and gentlemen should be very particular to be well dressed on the first visit of etiquette: black is the correct colour of ceremony. Call yourself with your credentials. If the parties called upon be out, leave your credentials and card, turning down a corner of the card, which means that you have called in person. When you ring at the door, probably an unseen person will exclaim, “Quien es?” “Who’s there?” The correct countersign is, “Gente de paz,” “Persons of peace.” As the first visit is always formal, observe how you are treated, and practise the same behaviour exactly when the call is returned. You will be conducted to the best room, the sala de estrado, and then led up to the sofa, and placed on the right hand. Great care will be taken of your hat—type of grandeeship—which a well-bred Spaniard seizes and seats on a chair as if it were a person; or insist on your putting it on: “Cubrase V.” is the highest compliment that can be paid to a friend. Be careful to pay this compliment always to the beaver of your visiting friend. When you get up to take leave, if of a lady, you should say, “A los pies de V. (usted), Señora,” “My lady, I place myself at your feet;” to which she will reply, “Beso á V. la mano, Caballero,” “I kiss your hand, Sir:” “Vaya V. con Dios, que V. lo pase bien,” “May you depart with God, and continue well;” to which you must reply, “Quede V. con Dios,” “May you remain with God.” Ladies seldom rise in Spain to receive male visitors; they welcome female ones with kisses both at coming and going. On leaving a Spaniard’s house, observe if he thus addresses you, “Esta casa esta muy á la disposicion de V. cuando guste favorecerla,” “This house is entirely at your disposal, whenever you please to favour it.” Once thus invited, you become a friend of the family. If the compliment be omitted, it is clear that the owner never wishes to see you again. When a lady makes a visit, a well-bred host gives her his arm to the door of her carriage. Remember always to pay a visit of ceremony to your male and female friends on their birthdays, or el dia de su santo, and to attend to your costume and put on your best black: on New Year’s day bring some small gift with you, as an aguinaldo. In walking with a Spaniard, if you wish to show him respect, take care to let him be inside, nearest the wall; the same nicety of relative position should be observed in