Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/32

[16] characteristics of the maritime coasts to the N.W. from Vigo to San Sebastian, are soothing and sedative—a relaxing influence prevailing as the French frontier is approached; the coast-line from Barcelona to Cadiz is more bracing and exhilarating. Tarragona possesses perhaps the most agreeable climate in Europe, whilst farther S. (in Murcia) occur the driest regions in Europe, with Malaga for the happy medium.

For all this, at the present time there are few towns in Spain where invalids can pass a winter with comfort or safety. Malaga enjoys a mild winter climate, and the same immunity from frost as does the Riviera from Nice to San Remo; but it is not a clean or healthy city. The drainage is as defective as can be. The hotels are fairly good, but there are few, if any, suburban residences fit for invalids (Dr. Bennett and Dr. More Madden, p. 280). Murcia in summer is a desert, except where water springs and irrigation create an oasis, where palms flourish in forest growth. In winter the climate is mild, dry, and exempt from frost. The water drunk in Spain, where—in the warmer portions—diabetes and dropsy are little known, is deliciously pure. The wines of Navarre, Valdepeñas, and Aragon, are cheap and wholesome. The cuisine, in a country where people eat to live, not live to eat, will indeed keep body and soul together, but will tempt no weak and wearied stomach to repletion. The peptic benefits of climate on the natives are evident by the way they digest an oil, vinegar, and vegetable diet, and survive chocolate, sweetmeats, and bile-creating compounds. The sustaining effect is proved by the untiring activity of the very under-fed masses, where many seem to live on air, like chameleons. To be always able to bask in the open air, to throw physic to the dogs, to watch the sun, the stars, the country, the blue Mediterranean, and the people, with the satisfaction of every day getting better, are consolations and occupations sufficient.

These are very numerous, and have always been much frequented. In every part of the Peninsula such names as Caldas, the Roman Calidas, and Alhama, the Arabic Al-hāmŭn, denote the continuance of baths, in spite of the changes of nations and language. From Al-hāmŭn, the Hhamman of Cairo, the name of our comfortable Jermyn Street Hummums is derived; but very different are the Spanish accommodations, which are mostly inadequate, and inconvenient. The Junta Suprema de Sanidad, or Official Board of Health, has published a list of the names of the principal baths, and their proper seasons. At each a medical superintendent resides, who is appointed by Government.

The most important of these establishments, and where a certain decree of comfort can be obtained for invalids, and which are remarkable for their admirable situation, are—Santa Agueda, Alzola, Arrechavaleta and Cestona (in the Basque Provinces), Caldas de Oviedo (Asturias), Ontaneda (Santander), Fitero (Navarra), Panticosa (Huesca), Caldas de Mombuy and la Puda (Cataluña), Alhama de Aragon, Lanjaron (Granada), Carratraca (Malaga). In the Almanaque de España, easily to be found everywhere, a list is also given of the properties of these medicinal waters, their locality and season.