Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/295

Basque Provinces. tian de Elcano is buried there, who in 1519 started from Seville to go round the world for the first time. He returned to San Lucar de Barrameda in 1522. Outside the spot occupied by the house in the Port, which he inhabited, a bronze statue has been erected.

The trout-haunted stream of the Urola (ur, water, ola, smithy) is crossed by a bridge at Oiquina, shortly before reaching

3 m. Zumaya. Pop. 1788. An ancient Roman town, situated on a promontory. From its proximity to Cestona (see p. 194) it is resorted to by invalids from the Thermal establishment, who here complete their mineral water cure by a course of sea-bathing. Obs. the battered '''Ch. of San Pedro'''.

Skirting the Gulf of Cantabria, the road continues to

6$3⁄4$ m. Deva. Pop. 3265. A charmingly situated town with two Plazas, streets intersecting each other at right angles, and a parish Ch. which is considered second to none in the Basque provinces. Visit the elegant loister. The portal is Gothic, and undoubtedly the best example of the kind in the Basque provinces. Its Town Hall is a well-built modern edifice, with portico and clock-tower. Deva is fast becoming one of the most favourite summer resorts of the citizens of Madrid. The house of the Marques de Valmar is worth visiting.

The mantos worn by the women of the locality on their heads are most picturesque. On Sundays the traveller might think himself transported back to the 16th century.

2 m. Motrico. Pop. 3316. The name in Basque signifies a hedgehog (tricu), which the rock near which the town is built is said to resemble. The pretty port is surrounded by wooded hills; the cottages of the fishermen are luxuriantly trellised over with vines, and the country around teems with fruit of every description. Much fish is sent from here to the markets of Madrid, Burgos, Valladolid, &c. A red chacoli wine is produced in the neighbourhood.

The Church is modern: obs. in the sacristy a Crucifixion, by Murillo. The country houses of Gen. Castañeda and M. Montalibet (containing a few good pictures) are amongst the numerous villa residences of the place. Admiral Churruca was born here; he died at Trafalgar; a statue has been erected to his memory on the Plaza. The first stone of the pedestal was placed by Isabel II. Visit the house which belonged to him.

Before reaching Ondarroa, the pleasant bathing locality of Saturraran is reached, much frequented by visitors from Madrid.

2$1⁄4$ m. Ondarroa—the mouth of sand—(Pop. 2747) is a snug but shallow little port, with a decent ch., and a good bridge over its river.

The road, said to be of Roman origin, passes the vill. of Mendeja, and along through the country to

6 m. Lequeitio. Pop. 2530. The town is built on a strong position, and is girdled by the hills of Lumencha and Otova.

The church, Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion, is a beautiful structure of very ancient date. Obs. the picturesque Casa de Adan. A fine bridge, of one imposing arch, spans the river Lequeitio, and leads to the foot of the Alto de Lequeitio, whence a most commanding view is obtained of the coast, the sea, and the inland range of hills.

The road now continues through La Puebla de Ea, and the communes of Ereno and Ibarranguela, to

14$3⁄4$ m. Guernica. Pop. 630. Guernica, as its Basque name signifies, is placed on the “slope of a hill,” below which is a “reedy flat,” called el Juncal, much subject to inundations, and full of snipes and wild-fowl in winter. At Guernica was held the Parliament of Basque senators, or apoderados de las ante-iglesias. This Calzarro congress, or Witenagemote, originally sat near the hermitage of '''Na. Sa. de la Antigua', under the overspreading canopy of an ancient oak'', which the [Spain, 1882.]