Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/19

Rh faith in the cabinet, of bankruptcy and repudiation on the exchange. This may be, however, entirely owing to the deteriorating influence of bad government, by which the individual Spaniard, like the monk in a convent, has been hitherto fused into the corporate. The political atmosphere has been too infectious to avoid some corruption, and while the Spaniard individually felt that his character was only in safe keeping when in his own hands (and no man of any nation knows better then how to uphold it), yet when linked with others, his self-pride has lent itself readily to feelings of mistrust, until self-interest has been too often uppermost. From suspecting that he would be sold and sacrificed by, others, he has usually been willing to float down the turbid stream like the rest: yet official employment has never entirely destroyed the private good qualities of the empleado, and he has ever been ready to do justice when appealed to as an individual.

Notwithstanding a Royal Decree of Dec. 17, 1862, releasing foreigners entering Spain from showing a passport, a stranger is constantly required to produce one, and in remote parts of Spain may be sent to prison if he cannot produce one.

A Foreign-office passport (cost 2s.) should therefore be obtained without fail by every one about to enter the Peninsula. It ought to be visé by a Spanish Consul in London or elsewhere (fee 1 dollar). It will be useful as a proof of identity, whilst its production may be required in order to obtain letters at the post-office; it will also facilitate an entrée into palaces, picture galleries, &c., upon days and at times when such are not open to the public generally.

Travellers who propose taking Portugal on their way to or from Spain must obtain the Portuguese visé either in London or Paris.

Those travellers who may require special assistance or aid from the local authorities in Spain, will find great civility shown them, provided that they on their part when entering the official residence take off their hats—that outward visible sign of good breeding and good intentions on the Continent, which is so frequently disregarded by our cool, curt, and catch-cold countrymen, to their infinite cost. In no country is more to be obtained by the cheap outlay of courtesy in manner and speech than in Spain; “cortesia de boca, mucho vale y poco cuesta.” Foreigners who intend to make a lengthened stay in the Peninsula should take out a fuero, and thus place themselves under the especial protection of the military authorities. A foreigner who has thus registered himself cannot be arrested by civil process. A warrant from the commander-in-chief of the province, or from the war-office in Madrid, must be procured before his personal liberty can in any way be interfered with.

Custom-house officers now (1882) give very little trouble, and the receivers of the derechos de puertas, or dues levied at city-gates on comestibles de boca—articles of eating and drinking—give none at all to ordinary travellers; but no prudent traveller should ever risk his ease b 2