Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/101

The Castiles. Soult in security from an attack save in the upper course of the river. The Duke, however, had ascertained from some Basque fishermen the existence of a ford close to the sea, nearly opposite Fuenterrabia, practicable only for 3 or 4 hours at neap tides, but at other times covered with 16 ft. of water. Awaiting the proper day and hour, he masked his columns unseen behind the hills on the 1. bank during the night, and by sunrise, after a heavy thunderstorm, the British troops were seen to emerge 7 columns at once on a line of 5 miles, the lowest winding like serpents across the wet sands. The opposite heights were speedily gained, and the French driven before them from one redoubt after another, turning the French position, while the assault higher up the river ended in the capture of the Great Rhune mountain. The tents were left standing in the British camp to avoid giving suspicion, and Soult was entirely taken by surprise.

6 m. Renteria Stat. Pop. 2884. Obs. to the l. extensive linen manufactories.

1$3⁄4$ m. Pasajes Stat. Pop. 1375. The pretty landlocked harbour to the rt. has all the appearance of an inland lake. A small port has been constructed here at the expense of a private company. Opposite, the fort of San Marcos has been built to defend it. An excellent china manufacture has been established there.

It is entered from the sea through a narrow cleft in a high hill, guarded by a castle. A portion of the town remained long in ruins from the Carlist bombardment. The Eng. Cemetery is enclosed by walls behind the town. The drive to San Sebastian is very pleasant.

4 m. San Sebastian Stat., $3⁄4$ m. outside the town, on the rt. bank of the Urumea, which is crossed by a handsome stone bridge. Omnibus to hotel, with luggage, 4 rs. (Inns: Fonda Ezcurra, well situated, near the bridge on the Alameda Nueva, highly recommended; French cuisine, 26 rs. a day; higher during the bathing season from June 1 to Sept. 30:—F. Inglaterra, good; F. de Londres.

Cafés: Café Oteiza, opposite the sea-shore; de la Marina, in the Boulevard; Café Suizo, Plaza Vieja.

H. B. M. Vice-Consul, Don J. de Brunet.

U.S.A. Consular Agent, J. M. Brunet, Esq.

Medical man, Don José Juan Sagastume, Calle del Poro, speaks French.

San Sebastian (Pop. 21,670) is the capital of the province of Guipuzcoa and was once a strong fortress. Its ramparts. are now demolished, and broad handsome streets at right angles have been built on the site. The town is the most fashionable sea-bathing resort in Spain, and is frequented by the best society of Madrid.

The ch. of Santa Maria is a fine building of the 17th century; the chapels and altars are magnificent. The Gothic ch. of San Vicente is well worth visiting; the Retablo is very fine. There is also the old Gothic convent of San Telmo, with a patio in the Renaissance style; it is now used as a Parque de Artilleria.

In the splendid Casino gambling is allowed, and during the summer balls and concerts are frequently given. Comfortable lodging-houses abound. The Plaza de la Constitucion is surrounded by arcades. There are 2 theatres.

The town, charmingly situated, occupies the land side of a picturesque round boss of rock, surrounded by the sea, except where an isthmus connects it with the shore. The E. side of this isthmus is washed by the river Urumea, and the W. side forms a very pretty bay, in which is a small harbour where alone vessels can anchor in safety. Here are bathing-machines; and Bath Establecimiento, called “La Perla del Oceano.”

The hill (called Monte Orgullo) is 492 ft. high, and is crowned by a castle  (la Mota). At the back of the hill facing the Bay of Biscay are the graves of many British officers who fell in the siege and Peninsular War. The walk round the hill is exceedingly pretty. The lane leading to it is at