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278 Cu (Indian name for a temple), at Chichén Itzá, 209, at Ixkun, 177, at Tayasal, 246, at Uspanlan, 80, at Utatlan, 67.

Cuba, 195.

Cubulco, 102.

Cuckoos, ground, 110.

Cuesta de Santa Maria, 62.

Cultivation, Indian methods of, 44, 46.

Culua, city, 251-2.

Custom House, exorbitant charges of at Guatemala, 8, 11, 15, irritating methods at Laguna, 214.

Cuzcatlán (Salvador), reached by Alvarado, 65.

Cypress, 85.

DANCES, 94-5, 214, 220-1.

Delgado, Padre Diego, his missionary expedition to Tayasal and its fate, 247.

Devil-fish, 5.

Diaz, Bernal, 194, cited on Cordova's expedition, 195, 244-5.

, Porfirio, President of Mexico, 190.

Dieseldorff, Mr. Erwin, archæologist, 119, 126.

Distilleries at San Gerónimo, 108.

Divers (birds), 216.

Dogs, Indian, ravenous, 79, 236-7.

Dolores, village, 174, 176.

de las Lacandones, settlement founded, 247.

Dolphins, 4.

Domingo, his tale of stone Idols, 164-5, and search for, 168, he propitiates the hill-spirit, 169, his vast appetite, 164.

Dominican missionaries at Coban, 95, at Santiago, 95, 96, in Sacapulas, 97, at Tuzulutlan, 98.

Drunkenness, see Goma.

Ducks and coots, 57, 216.

Dulce, Golfo, 128, 152, 251.

river, 246, gorge of, 155, 251.

Dutch padre at Coban, his reminiscences, 161-2, he reads a novel, 162.

EARTHQUAKES and volcanic eruptions at Antigua, 26.

Easter and Holy Week, holidays kept by Indians, 138, 143.

Ecclesiastical influence, decline of in Coban, 94, in Guatemala, 11.

Educational difficulties, 54-5.

Egrets, 216.

Elder trees and flowers, 22, 32.

Embroidery of Solola, fame of, 71.

Enaguas, part of women's dress, 23, 29, 42-3, 84.

Encuentros, Los, elevation of, 72.

Epiphytes, 58.

Equipment of a native traveller, 20.

necessary for exploring ruined cities, and difficulties of transporting it, 128, 141, 150.

Erezuma, Don Adolfo, 215, 217, 222, 223.

Ermitas described, 158.

Escuintla, ice trade of, 34.

Esquipulas, shrine of the Black Christ at, and religious festival of, 49, view of, 50.

Estancos (public-houses), 53, as pawn-shops, 72.

Euphorbiæ, 111.

FAMILY Saint, Indian, 92.

settlement, ib.

Ferns:—

Chute fern, 91.

Maidenhair, 22.

Tree-, 91, 105, 155.

Ficus trees, 30, 119.

Fiestas, (see Easter &c.) of the Hija de Maria, 12.

Indian, 73, 220.

de Reyes, 28.

Fighting scene in wall-paintings at Chichén Itzá, 207.

Fireflies, 77.

Fire Peak, Volcan de Fuego (ill.), 39.

Fish:—Devil-fish, 5, Dolphins, 4, Flying-fish, 4, Mojarra, 57, Triponcito or Pepesca, in the lake of Atitlan, 57.

in the Rio Usumacinta, 216.

Fish-fence, 217.

Flores, (see also Tayasal), 232, 235, 245.

Flowers:—

Barbas de viejo (Bromelia), 58.

Bignonia, 23.

Bottle-brush, 110.

Bromelias, 58, 92.