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Rh Clergy, celibacy of, past, 99, and present, 25.

Coban, Indians of, 87, 158; bad road to, 90; welcome of Mr. and Mrs. Thomae, ib., cottages and gardens of the natives, 91, their family saints and family settlements, 92, divisions of the town, ib., religious ceremonies at, 93, curious dances at, 94-5; decline of ecclesiastical power in, 94; market at, 95; Spanish missionaries to, 95-99; foreigners in at present time, 99, the Calvario at, ib., track from to Cajabon, mapped, 157.

river, 105.

Cochineal trade, formerly the staple of Antigua, 27.

Cockroaches, 123.

Cockscomb Mountains, 183.

Cocoanuts, 10.

Coco-palms, 3, 4, 7, 8, 23, 107, 109.

Coffee bushes, 23, 27, 30, 53, 57, 91, 108.

trees, San Cristobal, 89.

Cofradias, the, of Coban, organization of, 92, and suppression, 95.

Colima, Devil-fish at, 5.

"Colima" steamship, wreck of, 3.

Coloradillo insect, 122.

Colorado Casa, Chichén Itzá, 199-202.

Columbus meets the Mayas at Bonacco, 193-4.

Comitan village, Gorgonio's passport demanded at, 115, 198.

Commandante, the, at Monte Cristo, 222.

Cooking at high altitudes, 34-5.

Conventos at Cajabon, 160-2, at San Andrés Sacabajá, 78, at San Gerónimo, 197, at Uspantan, 84.

Copal used in sacrifice, 75, 168-9, 177, 209, 238.

Copan, 61, 70; road to, 105, writer's start for, 114, fording the river, 115; greeted at by the Niña Chica, 116; monumental remains at, 70, 117; writer's quarters at, 117, 118, 128, duties of the party at, 118, 119, birds at, 119-121, vegetation at, 122, insects of, 122, marching army of ants at, 122-3, snakes and wild animals of, 123, villagers, interested and interesting, 124, 125, 134-6, women of, ib., results of writer's work at, published in the 'Biologia Centrali-Americana,' 126-7; imposing plazas at, 126; earliest description of ruins at, 127; necessary outfit for the explorations at, and difficulties of transport, 128; site and condition of ruins at, 129, remains of temples among, 129, 130, calendar glyphs on stela at, 263, carved monoliths at, 70; visit of a general of the Honduras army to, 13, hindrances to work at, 132, generosity of the Niña Chica, ib., precautions against marauders, 133, a case of brujeria or witchcraft, 135, evening chats with the villagers of, 126, religion of villagers, 136-7, the Novena of San Antonio, 137, Easter celebrations at, 138; a case of goma or drunkenness-disease at, 138-9, honesty of the natives at, ib., the one exception, ib.; lessons in cleanliness to the natives at, 140; difficulties of packing and despatching moulds, ib.; changes at the ruins since date of visit, and important work on by Americans, 142; thunderstorms at, 143; writer leaves, for Quirigua, 143.

Copilco, 245.

Cordova, Hernandez de, his expedition to Yucatan, 194-5.

Corn, Indian, 32, 44, 108.

Coroza palms, 145, 147, 152.

Cortés, Hornando de, his expedition to Mexico, and conquest thereof, 195, 204; his march to Honduras, 183, 244-6, 250, 251.

Costa Grande, low lands of, 51.

Costumes seen in Guatemala, 28.

of Alcaldes, 20.

Indian, 23, 84, seen in Antigua, 29.

in Chimaltenango, 43.

Palenque, 58.

Patzun, 42-3.

San Tomas, 73.

Sololá, 71-2.

worn by Lacandon Indians, 237.

, Ladino, at San Miguel, 84.

Servants' at Guatemala, 10.

Women's, 29, riding do., 48.

Mestiza Women's, Laguna, 213.

Cozumel, Island of, 195.

Craters, of Agua, 26, 34-6.

of Fuego, 40.

Creoles, (see also Caribs), 188.

Crickets, 48.