Page:A Deul Story - Outlook Traveller - Volume 18 - Issue 7 - July 2018.pdf/4



The river started to engulf the temples, and at present only two remain—that too underwater. No dedicated boat service is available, and travellers can only visit the sites if a local fisherman agrees to ferry them.

Then there is the Bir Stambha or Hero Stone, located outside one of the temples. It serves as a memorial commemorating the death of a hero in battle. Another gem is the presence of many shivalingams at Haraktore. These may actually be banalingams (naturally created shivalingams).

The next day, I start with Deulghata near Ajodhya hills. There were once four massive deul temples here, of which only two stand today. Several stone idols have been found at Deulghata, which are now stored in a nearby temple. The place is desolate and deep in the forest, but comes alive during Dol Jatra and Tusu festivals. Surprisingly, neither the state archaeology department nor the ASI have undertaken the restoration of these structures.

The masks of Purulia are famous all over the country, and even the world. They, obviously, make great souvenirs. They are created by artisans from the small village of Chorida. I meet several of them and listen to them speak about their art in great detail. The Rasmancha, which is a historical structure at Begunkodor, is painted in a shocking blue and located inside a busy bazaar. It is a stark contrast to Deulghata, and the scenic drive from Chorida makes the visit all the more memorable.

It starts to rain heavily on the way to Suissa. I miss a few turns and decide to first visit Deuli, which is the farthest site. It has three very basic temples, one of which is in ruins, and, just as I am about to leave for Suissa, a local boy asks me whether I have paid a visit to the deity.

I am puzzled by his query as the two small temples seem to have no cells and the third is in ruins. To my surprise, he asks me to follow him and climbs over the ruins. I oblige and find a chamber inside the temple, accessed through a very small entrance from the upper portion. In a very Indiana Jones manner, I climb into the inner sanctum to find a massive Jain Tirthankar idol. Locals worship this idol as Lord Shiva. OUTLOOK TRAVELLER JULY 2018 81