Page:A Beginners First Course In Cutting.djvu/110

100 Mark in 2 inches and square up 1½in.; shape top by adding on ¼in. spring at C.

Points 1 and 2 are about one-twelfth seat above seat line.

Jones asked what special form of manipulation was necessary for trousers for this figure.

The Instructor stated that the shrinkage line of fronts would require to be placed well towards the inside of the leg to be in harmony with the great toes. It would be as well to full on the undersides at the calves at the back, and press the fulness well into the centre.

The Instructor stated that he had been looking through his scrap-book, and had come across two very useful wrinkles which he  thought would be of service to them. These wrinkles were from the pages of an old number of the American “Tailor and Cutter.” The first was a safety cash pocket which was always acceptable to everyone. The accompanying diagrams illustrate this pocket. Diagram 1 shows the outline of the pocket, which is, of course, put in in the usual way. K is the mouth of the pocket, which is on a level with the top of the waistband; J is the front button, which is sewn on to top of the cash pocket on the body side, as shown on Diagram 3, and passes through the other side of the pocket, the waistband and the suspender, as shown, thus locking the pocket.

Diagram 2 shows the inside of the right forepart, with the curtain lining and the fly catch lining turned down. A is the cash pocket, and B is the turned-over top of the pocket, to which the top of the curtain lining is felled. Just below B is shown the thread by which the button (N) is sewn to the body-side of the pocket; C is the inside of the suspender, which passes over the button, as shown on Diagram 1.

Diagram 3 shows the inside of the right forepart, with the cash pocket partly ripped, and shows the buttonhole at M in the pocket and waistband, through which the button (N) passes to catch the hole of the brace, and thus securely fastens the pocket.

Poole asked the Instructor to show them how to cut waistbands, seeing that trousers of the American cut were invariably finished with hands.

In complying with Poole’s request, the Instructor stated that it was necessary to take 2 inches off the tops of the trousers, and then cut the waistbands with a hollow sewing-to edge as follows:

O to 17 half waist plus ½in. Hollow at 8½, 1 inch, and shape as Diagram 196.

Wilson enquired what the tab was for on the button-catch of the diagrams illustrating the safety cash pocket.

The Instructor replied that it illustrated French bearers, which were greatly favoured in America and on the Continent. They were especially useful for corpulent trousers. It simply consisted of leaving a piece on the top of the button-catch, as shown, which buttoned over to a button sewn on the left side at the inside of waist, and acted as a support to the increment.

Thomas asked the Instructor if he would kindly show how to cut whole-falls, as he had a pair to make for an uncle who was well over three score and ten, and lived at a beautiful place in Devonshire, where he (Thomas) had spent many a nice holiday.

It was evident that Thomas was going to show his uncle how he was progressing, and, at the same time, show his esteem by making him a pair of trousers.

The Instructor said that whole-falls did not present any difficulty to cut. Cut 2 inches off the top of the topsides, as shown on Diagram 197.

Diagram 198 shows how to cut the bearers. Add on 2 inches above the cut-off part, A B. B to C is made about 4½ inches, while an inch is left on below C, as at D, to take tacking. 1 inch is added in front of A. The position of the holes and buttons and pocket is clearly shown on this diagram.

The Instructor stated that he had another useful wrinkle which he had seen in the same American journal mentioned above, which consisted of whole-falls with side-pockets.

The Instructor pointed out that the buttons which support the bearer pass through the holes of the suspenders, and thus serve a double purpose.