Page:010 Once a week Volume X Dec 1863 to Jun 64.pdf/684

 676 of safety the other side of the little pier. On the left, below Willapark Point, is the Black Hole, a dismal-looking cave, where, last autumn, a vessel, notwithstanding the ropes which were put out to the end of the harbour to guide it in, was dashed against the rocks and broken to pieces. Seals are found about these caves, and at some seasons of the year a pleasant day’s sport may be had in seal hunting. There was only one small vessel in the harbour when we were there. We were struck with the enormous size of the ropes and chains which were used to fasten it. We crossed the stream which runs into the harbour, and, taking the winding path by the side of the hill, came to the coastguard’s little hut. There is a seat there, where we lingered long, looking at the Isle of Murchard, straight before us. It stands out boldly with the green waves dashing round it; and as we sat, every now and then came a deep, booming sound from beneath, like thunder, and we could see the end of a jet of spray, but nothing more. Afterwards, going back and crossing to the other side of the harbour, we saw the explanation of this. A fissure in the opposite rocks, passing underground about fifty feet, communicates with the open sea, and from this, every now and then, a body of water is sent forward violently with a loud report. It is like the Devil’s Bellows at Kinance Cove. But you must be there to see this, as we were, within an hour of low water, and when the sea is rough. We stayed to watch the sun go down behind Murchard in a bank of stormy clouds; and as it began to look even more black and gloomy, the sea-gulls came out from their homes in its craggy rocks, and whirled screaming round our heads, making the grandeur of the scene deeply impressive. There is a romantic story told of Forrabury Church, the parish in which Boscastle and its harbour lie. There were no bells to the church; and as the inhabitants heard the sound of the musical peal at Tintagel, when the winds wafted it across the sea, they became anxious to have some of their own. Their wishes were warmly seconded by Lord Bottreaux, who lived at the castle; and in due time the bells were cast, and ready to be brought home. The vessel which was to bring the long wished-for freight appeared in sight, and the inhabitants came out upon the rocks to watch its entrance into the harbour. The pilot, who had charge of the ship, hearing the distant sound of his own native bells at Tintagel, gave thanks to God that he should be on shore that night. “Thank the good ship; thank God ashore,” said the captain. “Nay,” said the pilot, “we should thank God everywhere.” “Thou art a fool. Thank thyself, with a fair wind and a steady helm.” So they talked, the captain venting his rage in oaths and curses, the pilot firm in his dependence upon God. As the vessel neared Willapack Point and the dismal cliffs of the Black Point, clouds began to rise; and while the many eager faces were watching, one of those frightful storms came on, in which the vessel became unmanageable, struck upon the rocks, and freight, men, captain, all were lost, except the pilot, who was washed ashore upon a plank. In the pauses of the storm, which was long and violent, the clang of the bells was distinctly heard; and still, they say, the buried bells give their mournful chime in the frequent storms which desolate the coast.

When we reached the Wellington we found our tea set out in unexceptionable style, and we did it justice. The visitors’ book is very amusing, and beguiled the evening hours with its poetry and nonsense. It seems almost needless, in these days of education, to caution the reader about spelling correctly. One word, accommodate, we specially noticed. Only two or three had been able or daring enough to spell it right; the rest, either in ignorance or fear of being singular, had followed the general orthography. We went up to our lodging in the village, which looked so clean and cosy that we were tempted to inquire the price,—14s. a week if taken for a month, and less according to the length of stay; and this for two bedrooms and a sitting-room, with everything included. It was reasonable, was it not?

When we woke the next morning, the rain was coming down fast. We were half inclined not to get up; but as we were debating, a head appeared at the window opposite which seemed to understand the weather, and after looking first one way and then another, the nightcap was taken off; so we did the same, and by the time we were ready to go out, the rain had ceased. We walked down to the harbour, and found the coast-guard there still, pacing up and down. As more showers came on, we were glad to take refuge in his little hut, and found him very ready to give us information about Boscastle and its neighbourhood. We pointed out the islands along the coast, and learnt their names. We asked if there was much smuggling now. “No, he wouldn’t give twopence for all the smuggling that was done on that coast, and he didn’t hold with the coast-guard now there was nothing left for them to do.” His business, he told us, was to look out and see what vessels were passing, and if there had been a wreck near to watch for all that could be recovered. In the little cove of