Page:010 Once a week Volume X Dec 1863 to Jun 64.pdf/176

 168 Countries,” which was a work of great learning; and also a “most piquante novel called ‘The Mysteries of Copenhagen, which he wished to see translated into English, having heard of the enormous sums paid to sensation novelists. I was obliged to dash his hopes to the ground by assuring him that we were already over-burdened with that sort of “light literature!” They say that Hans Christian Andersen got only seven pounds for his famous “Improvisatore.”

There is not room in a short sketch to describe the other museums; that of Natural History contains some good specimens of the “Queen of the Auks,” the now extinct Great Auk, so happily described and quizzed the other day in the “Water-babies.” There are also some of its eggs, and these are believed to be genuine, though many so-called eggs of the gairfowl are in reality these of the largest species of Great Northern Diver, which chiefly inhabits Spitsbergen. The eggs are about six inches long, sharp at one end, and at the other mottled with black spots. The Collection of Curiosities at the Rosenborg Slot includes some interesting relics, such as the famous silver horn of Oldenburg, with all the incidents of feudal life sculptured on it; and the velvet saddle of Christian IV., sprinkled with pearls and diamonds, and said to be worth a million francs.

The best of the Museums is that of Northern Antiquities, open to the public three times a week. There are always some professors at hand, ready to explain everything, and allow the curiosities to be handled! A lady with us tried on several great gold arm-rings of defunct Vikings, and a necklet of solid gold weighing 1 lb. avoirdupois! The whole collection is arranged in periods. The Stone Age, with axes and celts of flint or aurochs-bone; the Bronze Age, with gold-inlaid swords and gigantic “lures,” or war-trumpets, used by the Vikings. Six of these were found buried in a marsh by Fredericsborg, their average length was six feet; these are mixed with spiral arm-rings and all manner of gold work. Then comes the Iron Age, with sword and buckler, and still more delicate jewellery for the women in the house. The second part of the Iron Ago is followed by the First and the Second Christian Middle Ages. Each period has a separate room, and each room is worth a long day’s study. Among the Christian curiosities lies the Dagmar Cross, a copy of which was her father’s wedding present to our Princess. It was found in Queen Dagmar’s tomb at Ringsted, near Roeskilde. The enamel is not very bright, but is finely worked; the figure upon it is Byzantine. A pamphlet about the cross is sold here at the door, published for the benefit of English visitors to “Cheapinghaven,” as the title-page translates the name. There are many other works of art here which are well known out of Denmark by reputation, especially the ivory head of Queen Helen, a horse modelled out of one piece of steel, with a fly on its leg, and various cameos and coral carvings. But the genuine antiquities are in reality the most valuable, from their scientific accuracy of arrangement and completeness.

Nobody should leave Copenhagen without driving out to the Deerpark and the Castle. The road lies along the shore of the Baltic, and commands a striking view of the neighbouring coast of Sweden and the Islands, especially the little one on which are the ruins of Tycho Brahe’s observatory, Each house has a pretty little bathing-machine built in the water, and approached by a long plank and rail, in which ladies can bathe unseen, or gentlemen dress and undress. We had a bathe at the pleasant inn at Klampenberg, where they keep excellent wine and a good cook. It is like going to Richmond in miniature.

No paper on Denmark would be at all perfect without a mention of the fêtes, of which the Danes are so passionately fond, that everyone, gentle or simple, turns out after dinner to see fireworks and horse-riders, and to hear music à la Cremorne, for the small price of the inevitable fourpence-halfpenny. These fêtes are all alike in their general features; but I think that the Tivoli Gardens are beaten by the Alhambra, which latter place we were told by the waiter is “the glory of Copenhagen.” The Tivoli Gardens are very pretty, and look on the fortifications and the moats, reflecting the huge flapping windmills, which flap all round the town. We went to a Grand Illumination and “Festivals-bal” at the Alhambra. The 10,000 additional lamps were nicely arranged, and lighted by gas in coloured shades. The performances were most various: music and dancing, an English circus with real clowns, gymnastics and juggling, and some nice little plays. A comedy called “Love among the Roses” was loudly applauded. The whole terminated with a series of dissolving views and a show of fireworks of all shapes and colours, which would astonish Cremorne Gardens.

There is so much to be said about Copenhagen, that it is very hard to stop when once one has begun; but everything must have its limits, and here my account shall stop. Any future tourist in those parts will endorse all my praise, and find out a great deal more to amuse and instruct in the pleasant city of Copenhagen.