Page:"Round the world." - Letters from Japan, China, India, and Egypt (IA roundworldletter00fogg 0).pdf/97

 a few years ago, it was a common occurrence in the broad streets of Yeddo, for the retainers and men-at-arms, following some petty Daimio, as he passed along, to cry to the people “shi-ta-ni-rio,” down, downand as if by magic, a wide path was opened, and every head was bowed, the body disappearing in some marvellous way behind the legs and knees of its owner. The attendants, bearing their masters’ ensigns and badges, stood ready to punish with instant death any insolent fellow who dared cross their line of march, while they scowled fiercely at every foreigner, muttering “intruders,” “barbarians,” “sorcerers,” “devils.” But all this is changed. Japanese officials of the highest rank now receive the foreigner as an equal, and visit him as a friend. Socially the people have been great gainers by the revolution. Except in some remote country districts the cry of “shi-ta-ni-rio” is no longer heard. The people have cast of the manners of slaves and are taking to themselves the hearts of men, and before many years they will claim a voice in the affairs of the country, which has heretofore been ruled exclusively by the military class.

In all our excursions about Yeddo we were accompanied by Yaconius, and the distances from one point of interest to another were so great that we were compelled to ride, either on horseback or in a carriage. Foreigners are here but rarely seen, and as we alight to look through the shops, the people gather about the door, almost blocking up the street, and follow in a long troop behind. They are very curious in examining our clothes and watching our motions, but are perfectly quiet and reepectful. How a couple of Japanese, in their odd costume, would be chaffed and hooted at, if strolling through some streets in New York.

One of the first places visited by us was the Castle of the Tycoon, now occupied by the Mikado. It is inclosed by three separate walls and moats, and the space occupied by the official buildings, gardens and parks is over three square miles. Few foreigners have seen the inside of the castle, and we are only permitted to paces within the first wall, which is of stone, perhaps forty feet in height, and surrounded by a broad moat with beautiful sloping banks of green turf. The gates are very massive, and the portals of hewn stone, fitted, not cemented, and look strong enough