Page:"Round the world." - Letters from Japan, China, India, and Egypt (IA roundworldletter00fogg 0).pdf/57

 called a Compound, and contains an elegant residence surrounded by shrubbery, warehouses or go-downs, offices, &c. Other streets parallel with the Bund, extend back for some distance, and are occupied by the European retail dealers. Separated by a large canal on the east are the heights, an aristocratic quarter, where the foreign ministers reside, and also some of the wealthiest merchants. Back of the European town and adjoining it on the west, is the native quarter, full of curio shops, where Japanese life and manners can be seen, and a place especially interesting to strangers. There are only about twelve hundred foreign residents here, one half of whom are English; perhaps two hundred Americans, and the balance French and German. Kanagawa is a large native town two milea [sic] from here, and was by the treaty the port to be opened to foreigners in 1860. But the government, in accordance with its policy to keep foreigners distinct from the Japanese, laid out the town of Yokohama on the low, marshy shore of the bay, isolated it from the main land by canals, filled up the marsh from the adjoining hills, built extensive piers of granite, a large custom house, and gave the land without charge for consulates, warehouses and stores. Its location is much better for harbor facilities than Kanagawa, with which it is connected by a causeway, and it can be more easily defended in case of disturbance. At that time the exclusion policy of the Yeddo government was gradually giving way, but a strong party in the country was bitterly opposed to the foreigners and had to be conciliated. By making the foreign settlement an island the government could say that no Aliens had been allowed a dwelling place lo Nippon, and the letter of the unrepealed law against the admission of “barbarians” was evaded.

After securing comfortable quarters at the European hotel, let us go out for a walk. Holding a horse in front of the hotel is a betto, or groom. He wears neither coat nor pants, hut his clothing is elaborate, and is easily washed, and certainly is a perfect fit. It consists of a very narrow girdle and suit of tatooing, the colors being red and blue. On his back is a frightful dragon with his tail curled around under the betto’s arm. Nondescript monsters, and curious designs of tigers, lions and human figures cover nearly his whole body, and he is evidently gratified at my admiration of his