Page:"Round the world." - Letters from Japan, China, India, and Egypt (IA roundworldletter00fogg 0).pdf/231

 wondarfuily in favor of the hideous reptile, Some witty essayist has written a paper ‘fon the advantage of being s cantankerous od fool.” If a cobra could reasoa he might cougratulate himself “on the advantages cf being an ugly, horrible ‘sarpint,’ with a fiend’s eves, and a mouth full of certain death.”

As we ride along, the smooth road this besutifrl morning we see neither wild beasts nor venomous reptiles, but meet long strings of camels, and great lumbering ele- phsnts loaded with packs larger than them: selves, or carrying howdehs with gaily colored decorations, in which are stowed the family of same wealthy nstive traveler. At the Villages the military police in dark- blue tueics, yeliew trowsare, and bright red turhsng, rise ep from sleep or hookah, axnd give us the military salute—due in India to tho white face from all native troops. Here your skin is your pateit of nobility and paseport, alt inane. On the road the na~ tives all salaam ta us—except mero coaliea, who do not think themselves worthy even to offer a sslate—and a3 I make it a part of my religion neyer to be outdone in cour- tesy, 1 always return the low bow and humbie “gsiasm, sahid,?? with a civfl ond polite “salasm.”

At noon we reach Hxsjpore, a pretty vii- lage nestled at the ioot of the hills that form the first rapge of the Himalayas. There cau be uo mistake now about our proximity to thesa grand old mountains. What ali day yesterday scemed tike white fizeey clouds, piled up slong the nerthera horizon, and gradually rising as we 2p- proached, now stand sharply defined in leity heights, uprising eua above another, and extending ag far as the eye can seseh. Im- mediately before us are the mighty spurs of this mighty range, upon which is perched the town of Mussoorie, while a mile or two further on, st the enmmit of these hills, we discern the pretty white cottages of Lan- dour, over 8,000 feet above the sex, and the ultima-thule of our journey.

From where we stand in ths piazza of the hotel we can traca the narrow zig-zag pail winding up the mountain side, In some places seeming lika a shelf cut from the solid rock. By the path weare told that it ig ten miles to Landour, although it can be searaly one fourth that distance ‘as the bird files. Here we exchange our Dak- gharry for ponies and Jampans; and all the luggage ia psdked onthe backs of Coolies,