Page:"Round the world." - Letters from Japan, China, India, and Egypt (IA roundworldletter00fogg 0).pdf/227

 come down from a past generation, where they have figured in such trifling incidents as breakdowns and “spills,” which even now are not of unfrequent occurrence and give a zest to the unique style of conveyance.

The stations are about six miles apart, and we make good time, for the horses are seldom allowed to hold up from the sharp canter into which they were started, except when we approached the river-channels, which at this season are nearly dry, but are frequently flooded by sudden storms, and by melted snow from the Himalayas, when all communication is stopped for days. Before passing one of these places the horses are always taken out, and bullocks harnessed to the dak, for the horses would be sure to “balk” in the middle of the stream, or in ascending the steep sclivity on the other side.

Our road was ever a smooth plain, and the novelty and excitement of our conveyance, added to the cool, refreshing breeze sweeping down from the mountain peaks, which in the dim distance ahead seemed fleecy white clouds, produced an exhilaration like champaign. Along the road in front of the dak the ground squirrels trooped, and birds without number hopped fearlessly by our side, while paroquets, brilliant in blue and red plumage, were perched on the trees and gave us sidelong glances, as if amused and edified at our songs and laughter.

Before noon we reached the entrance of the Mohun Pass, and halted for three hours at the government bungalow, which is located on the summit of a high hill, commanding a beautiful view of the plain over which we had passed. The native Khansamah, the genius of the place, provided an excellent dinner, though his bill of fare was not very extensive. The omelet was delicious, and the “sudden death”a fowl which we heard cackling in the yard as we drew up, and served up half an hour afterward in a fricasee, as appetizing as Delmonico'stogether with our “small stores,” were all that an epicure could desire.

Through the Pass, a distance of eight miles, our dak was drawn by nine coolies. The reason why horses are not used here was to us incomprehensible; for the road was smooth, and an American horse could easily have trotted up the steepest ascent. But in India the hire of nine men is less than that of two horses, and a pas-seul of