Page:"Round the world." - Letters from Japan, China, India, and Egypt (IA roundworldletter00fogg 0).pdf/111

 in Canton or any part of southern China. This machine must be the germ of the Irish jaunting car. It carries two persons, who sit back to back on a narrow board on either side of the wheel, with one foot thrust into a rope stirrup. The “propeller” pushes along his squeaking vehicle, whose wooden axle is innocent of any lubricator, assisted in bearing up the weight by a leather strap across his shoulders. With but one passenger he is obliged to tilt it up very awkwardly on one side to keep the equilibrium. Since the wheelbarrow has become a recognized institution in the foreign quarter of the city various devices have been suggested for improving its construction. But John is slow in adopting foreign innovations, and especially obstinate in adhering to the dismal squeak of his machine. No amount of persuasion, short of a municipal ordinance enforced by the dreaded policeman, can induce him to apply a little oil to the axle. It is enough for him that his father and grandfather used no grease, and the dismal wail of a score of machines is music in his ears. As I stand watching these novel velocipedes go by loaded with Chinese of both sexes I am reminded of the nursery ballad, but here the roads are smooth and the streets broad, and I see no necessity for the happy Benedict to “carry his wife home on a wheelbarrow.” The final catastrophe, too, is wanting, unless some luckless sailor, out on a bender, is unable to maintain his balance.

In the river opposite the city is anchored a large fleet of foreign ships and steamers, and near the shore are moored several large hulks in which is stored the opium from India. These opium hulks are under the strictest surveillance of the Chinese custom house officials, as this article pays a very high import duty and offers great temptations to smugglers. For some years past the maritime customs department of China has been under the control of foreigners, mostly English and Americans, holding office from the Chinese government. They are paid large salaries, and if not absolutely proof against fraud and speculation, they are reported to be as honest public servants as the custom house officials of any foreign civilized government. They are certainly a great improvement on the native Chinese, who formerly held the positions, under whose administration scarcely a tithe of the duties collected ever found its way to the Imperial treasury. It is the commonly