Instructions in Spirella Corsetry/Chapter 14

Chapter 14: How to Select the Client's Corset from the Catalogue
1.	Before taking body measurements you decided an the client's TYPE, POISE, existing CONDITIONS and checked them off in your Memorandum Order Book. You decided on any correction you wished to make, decided the lacing ADJUSTMENT best adapted to this correction and made spacing deductions accord- ingly. A11 this information brings you to a consideration of the corsets in the catalogue adapted to your client's type and condition.

2. If your client has conditions which cause her to vary from normal and which have not entered into your decision on lacing ad- justment, these must now be considered.

3.	BACK CURVES: If you decided on a front adjuustment, the varying back curves must be considered in your selection. A front- laced corset being closed in the back is designed with a certain back curve. For this reason the corset must be selected with the curve which conforms more closely to the client's back curve than does a back-laced corset.

4. This makes it necessary far you to consider carefully the amount of curve in the style you select and to use judgment in deciding whether it will conform to the client's back curve. A front-laced corset properly selected can bring about a certain amount of back curve correction. For instance: a corset designed with a B back curve will correct a slightly less or slightly deeper curve and bring it to the curve which the corset has in its design. A change of poise, from abnormal to normal, will also change the depth of back curve to normal. Through the re-distribution of flesh, body curves in the back can be changod. to conform to the curve in the corset used, soft flesh being the most easily moulded.

5.	CONDITIONS OF FLESH over the front of the body call for front lacing adjustment in the corset. The value secured through this adjustment lies in the compression which it affords. When the condition of flesh is excessive and at the same time hard, com- pression sufficient to correct the condition would be too severe for the client in the beginning. With this condition select a corset with only partial front adjustment; this will afford only partial correction. Through successive corsetings with this same series, selecting a smaller hip development each time, the waist is gradu- ally enlarged and the hip development reduced. The figure can, in this way, be moulded into more normal lines. This will eventually improve the condition so that a front-laced corset can be used cor- rectly.

6.	SCANT BUST is a condition that appears on some clients who are normal in every other way. This condition can be benefited by using a front lacing adjustment. The compression below the waist and the freedom above tend to restore a normal bust development. While you should not decide the lacing adjustment on this condi- tion alone, it should be taken into consideration in your selection.

7. PROMINENT HIP BONES usually appear on 20-type, but may also occur on 60-type and medium sizes of 40-type. The adapta- bility of 20-type corsets, whether back or front-laced, shows that all are designed to care for this condition. A study of the adaptability of corsets for other types will show which ones are designed to care for this condition.

8. SHOULDER AND UNDER ARM FLESH usually appear on 30-type; therefore 30-type corsets are designed to care for these con- ditions, even though not mentioned under their adaptability.  How to compare the client's body measurements with the measurements of the corsets adapted to her type and condition  9.	The bust and hip developments shown after you made spacing deductions from the client's actual body measurements now give you a basis from which to select a corset from the catalogue through comparison.

10. Compare the developments shown by your client's measure- ments with the developments of the corsets in the catalogue de- signed for her type. By using your judgment, you can select a cor- set with the developments your client needs. These developments may be more or less than those shown.

11.	If your client has a normal bust development, a corset with the spme or slightly more development will adapt to her. If the bust is scant, a corset with larger bust development is absolutely necessary. This increase may be two or more inches according to the size of the client's bony structure. The purpose is to allow room for the rib structure and to harmonize the bust size with the shoulder breadth.

12.	A larger bust and waist size in a standard corset will adapt to the client, but a smaller bust development in a standard corset cannot be used without enlarging it. This change makes a "spe cial" corset. [Exception. If a law bust corset that leaves the bust free be selected, a smaller bust development than the client's meas- urements show can be used.]

13. If the client's hip development is normal, or you do not wish to change her figure lines, select a corset with the same hip development. If the corset you are considering has a smaller hip development than that of the client and you do not wish to enlarge her waist, consider another corset with larger hip development. It is not advisable to enlarge the hip development of the corset very much as this increase may not be consistent with the design and might change the position of the boning in the corset.

14. If the hip development is larger than normal, you can de- crease it and change the proportions by increasing the waist size. To do this use a standard corset with a smaller hip development than that of the client. Increasing her waist size and leaving her hip measurement the same, results in decreasing her hip develop- ment. The quantity of soft, movable flesh below waist determines the amount of increase in waist size successfully accomplished by one corseting. When the hip flesh is so hard that it cannot be re-distributed toward the waist line, or so very scant that there is none to move, the waist size cannot be increased more than two inches over normal by one corseting.

15. The method of determining the waist size, when using a standard corset with a smaller hip development than that of the client, is given in the section on deductions. It is better to use this method to decrease your client's large hip development than to make a "special" corset. This not only gives better figure lines but is more satisfactory, as it allows the use of a standard corset. If the client's hip development is too small to permit her to wear a standard corset, a "special" corset will be required.

16. Compare the client's center bust measurement with the height of the corset you are considering. Her measurements above waist show you the extreme height of the corset you can use. A corset lower above waist than her measurements show will adapt to your client.

17. Compare the client's measurements below waist with the length of the corset you are considering. Her measurements be- low waist show you the extreme length of the corset you can use. A corset shorter below waist than her measurements show will adapt to your client.

18. The actual body measurement over the center front below waist helps to decide the length of clasp below. If you were able to secure a flat surface over which to take this measurement, you would use a clasp below of the same length. This is the clasp length the client should have. A slightly shorter clasp length in the standard corset can be used. A half-inch longer clasp than the body measurement can be used if the corset is not adjusted too low in the front.

19.	If unable to control the flesh so as to secure a flat surface over which to take this measurement, the clasp must be a little shorter than the body measurement. This allows for the flattening to be accomplished by the new corset. Where the abdomen is very prominent and hard, the re-distribution of flesh may not be enough to make a perfectly flat surface. In this case allow a slight differ- ence only and make the clasp slightly shorter than the actual body measurement.

20. All boning lengths may be shorter than the measurements taken, but must not be longer.

21. Your selection of the corset must be made from those de- signed for your client's type. The selection must be governed by your client's needs. These must be considered in connection with the adaptability of the standard pattern and a comparison of her measurements with those in the series.

22.	Standard patterns are designed for normal types; therefore, their measurements and proportions will give more pleasing lines to the figure, will adapt to the correction of variations and bring them back to normal:

23.	If you select a standard corset as a result of your compari- son, it will not be necessary to send us the client's measurements. The corset being made from a standard pattern will have the stand- ard measurements given in the catalogue. This will simplify your order. The only measurement needed is the waist size of the corset selected, for which there is a space on the "Standard Order Form."

24.	Read every word on your order form, study it carefully and fill out each space as instructed. Write on the order form only the information called for. These instructions, followed carefully, will bring you prompt service.