Instructions in Spirella Corsetry/Chapter 13

Chapter 13: Deductions for Lacing Space
1.	You have decided which lacing adjustment to use in the new corset. The corset does not reach entirely around the body, as a portion of the body is covered only by lacer. This is called lacing space. A deduction is made from the actual measurement around the body to allow for this lacing space. This is called "spacing de- duction" and differs according to the lacing adjustment selected.

Rules for spacing deductions and lacing spate



5. While the spacing deduction is 3 inches from the hip meas- urement, the lacing space at the hip shows only 2 inches. This extra deduction allows greater compression over the hip by drawing the corset together an extra inch in the back when the final adjust- ment is made. The extra com pression secured in this way is a specific function of the combined front and back-laced corset.

 7. While the spacing deduction is 3 inches from the hip meas- urement, the lacing space at the hip shows only 2 inches. This extra deduction allows greater compression over the hip by drawing the corset together an extra inch in the back when the final adjustment is made. The extra compression secured in this way is a specific function of the front and partial back-laced corset.

 Bust

Waist

Hip 

9.	After the spacing deduction has been made from the client's actual body measurements you know exactly haw many inches are required in the corset to cover the body at the bust, waist and hip, and to allow for the lacing space. The number of inches at the waist represents the waist size of the corset. To determine which corset will give you the exact number of inches at bust and hip, find the corset development the client requires.

10. TO DETERMINE BUST DEVELOPMENT OF CORSET. With the spacing deduction made, subtract the waist size from the bust size. The difference is the bust development needed in the corset. [Exception. If the client has a condition of scant bust, her bust measurement after spacing deduction is made, must be in- creased. See Sec. 14, par. 6.]

11. TO DETERMINE HIP DEVELOPMENT OF CORSET. With the spacing deduction made, subtract the waist size from the hip size. The difference is the hip development needed in the corset, provided you have secured a good foundation over which you have taken a tight hip measurement and the figure is not abnormal, When the hip measurement has been taken under these conditions, the hip size of the corset must always be exactly the same as the client's hip measurement, less spacing deduction.

12.	To show how to make spacing deductions to determine waist size and to find corset development from the client's actual body measurements, let us assume the following:

13. When back lacing adjustment has been decided upon make spacing deductions as follows: 14. To find corset development, subtract the measurements se- cured as a result of making spacing deductions, as follows: 15.	Proceed in the same manner with other lacing adjustments, making spacing deductions according to rules given in this section.

To determine waist size when the client's hip development, less spacing deduction, is greater than the hip develop- ment of the standard corset under consideration</B>

16. With the spacing deduction from the client's actual hip measurement made, subtract the hip development of the corset you are considering from the remainder. This will give you the waist size that you must use in that standard corset. [Note: The use of this method is modified by flesh conditions. See Sec. 14, Par. 14.]

17.	To show you haw to make spacing deductions and to deter- mine waist size when changing the proportions of an irregular figure, with soft flesh, let us assume the following actual body meas- urements: 18.	When back lacing adjustment has been decided upon, make spacing deductions as follows: 19. To find corset development, subtract the measurements se- cured as a result of making spacing deductions, as follows:

20. This development shows irregular proportions, so it would be well to change them. In this case let us assume that the hip de velopment is to be reduced 2 inches. To do this let us select a cor- set with a 12 inch hip development instead of 14. The hip measure- ment was taken tightly so the client's hip size cannot be made any smaller. To find the waist size that will give you 40 inches of ma- terial around the hip (of this corset with a 12 inch hip develop- ment), subtract as follows:

21.	This corset with a 28 inch waist size and 12 inch hip devel- opment produces straighter lines and so reduces the amount of curve over the hips. The soft flesh is re-distributed upward by the straighter lines of the new corset. This re-distribution of flesh fills out the waist and bust of the corset and in this way changes her figure lines.

22.	When this corset, size 28, is adjusted correctly with a 2 inch lacing space at the waist, it makes the client's waist measurement 30 inches instead of 28 inches. This increased waist size and de- creased hip development changes the client's irregular proportions nearer to normal.

[Note: Spacing deductions herein are treated only in their rela- tion to corsets. Spacing deductions for waists and other garments are treated on page 90 of the 1916 catalogue.]